STORY: PAUL BRADSHAW
PHOTOGRAPHY: PAUL BRADSHAW AND THE AUGUSTINE HOTEL, PRAGUE

When a former supermodel invites you on a tour of her homeland, you don’t say, “Let me check my calendar.”  You just say, “See you in Prague!” First, the backpackers discovered it. Then, the creative world–filmmakers, writers, artists and musicians-began to mine its beauty and energy, in the process anointing Prague with the “next big thing” status. Paul Bradshaw crosses the pond to affirm Prague’s rave reputation and surrenders to its historic charm amidst a mad, modern world. 

My pal Andrea Liskova, a Czech native now living in New York, made her mark on the modeling world in her late teens and early 20s as part of a new wave of beauties from the former communist countries of Eastern Europe.  Now, she is a charming, gorgeous and eloquent ambassador for tourism to her country.  She picked me up at the Prague airport with a full itinerary in hand. Our first stop was a jaw-dropper:  Sir Rocco Forte’s brand new hotel, The Augustine.  Sir Rocco’s reputation for five-star luxury is further burnished by this unique property.  Carved out of a 13th century monastery, The Augustine is all clean lines and chic simplicity—luxury with a playful nod to the asceticism of its previous occupants.  The suites are clever and grand, from the three-story Tower Suite in the monastery’s original tower, to the immense multi-room Charles Suite, where Sir Rocco himself stays when he’s in town.  The “standard” rooms are anything but—in fact, no two are exactly alike—and every room comes complete with a breathtaking view of Prague Castle, St. Thomas Church or the monastery courtyard.

Next on the agenda was lunch at the hotel restaurant, called appropriately enough, The Monastery, set in a glass-covered courtyard.  Executive Chef Richard Fuchs is creates food that is inventive and delicious, incorporating influences of his experiences from around the world with a new take on Czech cuisine.  The Monastery is definitely going to be a hotspot on the Prague dining scene.  There is also a see-and-be-seen watering hole called The Brewery, occupying the exact location on the property where monks ran a favorite local pub, selling their own brew.

Set in the Mala Strana district, just across the river from the Old Town, The Augustine joins the Mandarin Oriental and Four Seasons in Prague’s super-luxury category.  One advantage the Augustine has on its competitors however, is the actual St. Thomas Monastery, which is part of the hotel complex. Stressing about your toddler’s private school application? Feeling (slightly) guilty for wresting those Louboutins away from that Russian oligarch’s trophy wife? Why not unburden yourself?  Through a discreet door just off the lobby you’ll find the cloisters of the working monastery where, by appointment of course, one of the friendly monks will be happy to unburden your troubles in the beautiful church and private library of the order, containing books dating to the 16th century.  It was like being in the stacks at Hogwarts, shelf after shelf of thick, leather-bound volumes, all still in use today.  Of course, for a more traditional approach to de-stressing, try The Augustine’s sublime spa with a full repertoire of treatments.  

With the weight of the world off my shoulders, it was time for some heavy lifting in the shopping arena.  For sophisticated travelers, Paris awaits just off the main tourist area.  Pariszka, “Paris” in Czech, is the hub of the glamorous life in Prague.  Head north from the tourist hordes crowding the Old Town Square and you’ll stumble onto a tree-lined street, admiring the tasteful pattern in the cobblestone sidewalks. The usual suspects abound: Cartier, Dior, Vuitton, Gucci, Hermes—and a freshly minted Prada store; but its the local boutiques that will really turn your head.  First up is At Work and its sister store, The Address.  Here you’ll find a quirky mix of known international names like Commes des Garcons, Y3, Yves 619 and others, as well as a charming sampling of toys from Kidrobot.   Down a few blocks, on the other side of the street, is the fantastic Simple Concept store.  The front room is anchored by a champagne bar and holds a perfectly curated collection of books, music and objects while light/art installation pulse in time to the DJ’s grooves wafting through the store.  Move deeper into the space and you’ll find the fashion.  You might as well leave your willpower at the hotel.

If all that shopping works up an appetite, pop into Barock, a favorite of Czech celebrities and many international stars (was that Matt Damon?) are known to stop in for a bite. Across the street is Pravda, probably the first restaurant in Prague to generate buzz.  Universally praised by reviewers, including the New York Times, Pravda continues to be a favorite of the beautiful people.  Be sure to make a reservation, as this is one of the hottest tables in town. Just around the corner on Hastalka is the restaurant that has everyone in Prague raving. At La Degustation Bohême Bourgeoise, Chef Oldrich Sahajdak reinvents classic Czech recipes filtered through a modern culinary lens, drawing influences from his stints in kitchens around the world.  His seven course tasting menus are the rage among the Prague foodie set. 

With all this culinary creativity going on, I was curious about other creative expression. “What about indigenous fashion?” I wondered aloud.  “Is there anything going on in Prague in that regard?”  One phone call and 30 minutes later, we arrive at the studio of Libena Rochova, perhaps the most famous Czech fashion designer to date. Having honed her skills in the fashion houses of Paris (in this case the city, not the street), Rochova sees her haute couture as a synthesis of fashion and art.  Paper, glass, leather and textile are all materials that find their way into her work. Jaded New York fashionistas were wowed by her collection at this year’s Mercedes Benz Fashion Week, which juxtaposed her fashion forward couture with original glass jewelry. On this day, however, Rochova’s studio was a look into the future. Since her return to the Czech Republic, she has added the role of teacher to her repertoire, and today was showing off her students’final projects.  It was like stepping onto the set of Project Runway, with inventive couture creations displayed like the works of art they truly were.

Modernista, a favorite nearby shop, boasts a collection of well-designed objects from 20th century Czech artists.  Housewares, gifts and books are tastefully displayed throughout the ground floor space.  Spiral downstairs into the lower gallery if you want to see what makes the top shop really special.  There you will find a selection of breathtaking colored glasswork, including the most amazing vases.  This is definitely not your grandmother’s Czech crystal.

As beautiful as these pieces were, there is even greater beauty to be found just strolling around the city.  The quantity and caliber of public art in Prague rivals any I’ve seen.  Around every corner is another masterpiece — from the always evolving, block-long graffiti art homage to John Lennon, to the provocatively engaging sculptures sprinkled liberally throughout the town.  Bronze statues, installation pieces and wire sculptures abound, each positioned for maximum impact or a surprise effect. If indoor art is more your thing, make sure you pop by the Museum Kampa for a healthy dose of modern.  This converted mill on the banks of the Vltava River provides the perfect backdrop for their boundary-pushing collection and exhibits.  

Heading back to the hotel, I stare past David Cerny’s giant bronze baby sculptures to the rushing waters of the river and am struck by the metaphor: Prague is rushing, too.  Rushing to “grow up” or catch up; rushing to create, to find new and innovative outlets for the pent up energies of years past.  Or maybe it’s more like a great bottle of champagne, opened a little too enthusiastically, spraying a bit on the celebrants. And Prague has plenty to celebrate.

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