Couture Culture

STORY AND PHOTOGRAPHY BY: ANNIE KREIGHBAUM

We all know Paris is chock-full of world-renowned landmarks- the Arc de Triomphe, the Louvre, the Eiffel Tower, and of course, designer boutiques. Glorious, bountiful, beautiful boutiques. But, alas, it was strictly business during my inaugural visit to the City of Lights. I was there for one reason and one reason only - the fabled Haute Couture Week.

Invitations to the shows were delivered to my room at the Hilton Arc de Triomphe and I sorted the dizzying array of papers, folders, and cardboard into three days of couture mayhem. I strolled down Franklin Avenue, croissant in hand, to the Palais de la Découverte for my first show: Stéphane Rolland. The gorgeous foyer was filled with natural light radiating off of the bright white walls and runway. After a seemingly never-ending wait, the packed audience was hushed as the first look- a fitted grey number with exaggerated shoulders- appeared at the top of the staircase and made its way down the runway. The crisp setting was a perfect backdrop for the collection, which was refreshingly simplistic with the stark white, grey, black, and tan color palette, and lack of fussy embellishments. The overall look was clean and futuristic, with innovative, sharp silhouettes and unique details like layered piping, bulbous shoulder pads and exquisite use of translucent fabrics. I was invigorated by the impeccable show and left wondering who could top, or even match the bar set by Rolland.

Then came Georges Chakra’s collection- at long last, elaborate done right. The taxi ride to the Cité de l’Architecture et du Patrimoine was well worth the 15 euros and steady depletion of my shopping allowance- Chakra’

s glam, sparkly stunners were enough to fill my fashion fix. The richness of the jewel-toned and metallic color palette were bested only by the aforementioned ornamentation, with frocks dripping in heaps of beaded fringe and adorned with adorable capelets encrusted in crystals or made of delectable chiffon ruffles. Chakra continued the transparency trend with sheer mesh cutouts but exercised his creative prowess by placing them in unexpected places across the collarbone or along hips. His New York showcase was amazing, but the couture collection, with a more mature, luxurious feel, far surpassed its predecessor.

I was ill-informed that there would be no time for the Louvre. In fact, Mona Lisa’s haunt was a must, as Zuhair Murad’s couture showing was held inside for yet another packed crowd- alluding to the excellence that was about to ensue. Soft blue lights lit the runway and snow began to fall as models strutted down the catwalk. Murad’s creations were the epitome of luxury, with blinding, Swarovski beading paired with luscious fur and feathered embellishments for a look that was absolutely regal. The Czarina-chic collection featured soft, icy-colored chiffon, which sharply contrasted mirrored metal belts cinching in tiny waists. While not the most over-the-top or innovative show in Paris, Murad’s collection definitely surpassed the others in opulent elegance.

Fittingly, the grand finale was Jean Paul Gaultier. There was no question that the inspiration was Old Hollywood, with a massive stage of curtains, lights and the 20th Century Fox opening music blaring before the first look debuted. I got a little taste of the Hollywood action myself as I exited my cab and was immediately swarmed by foreign paparazzi clicking away. My overwhelming desire to apologize for not being famous and wasting their film was overshadowed by the couture calling from within the building. Once inside, the target of the celebrity shutterbugs became apparent- Kylie Minogue and Mickey Rourke were noteworthy faces near me in the sea of guests. However, the true starlets were atop the runway with each model styled as a silver screen legend like Mae West, Brigitte Bardot, and the Hepburns to name a few. The clothing, in contrast, was anything but vintage; Gaultier embraced the one-piece trend with architectural leotards ala Beyoncé as Sasha Fierce, and managed to make overalls look elegant as the sequenced sensations flowed like evening gowns down the catwalk. The show was a standout thanks to Gaultier’s flare for theatrics and true sense of glamour.

If there was anything I learned from Haute Couture Week, it’s that transparency is in, modesty is out. One-pieces have staying power way longer than expected and feathers are the new fringe. Basically, I have some serious shopping to do, but unfortunately it won’t be in the birthplace of these fabulous new trends. Oh well, there’s always NorthPark, La Contera and The Domain.

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